The Sacred Valley
The Sacred Valley
On my third day in Peru I decided to join a guided tour of the Sacred Valley to make it easier to experience some of the areas further from the city.
Chinchero
At Chinchero stands the remains of the Palace of inca Tupac Yupanqui (Pachacutec's son and heir), with the church of Chinchero built over it.
The trapezoidal niches here apparently contained the mummified remains of powerful Incans still attired in great wealth and so looted by the Spanish.
The upper part of this wall has been reconstructed to the same design but with less perfection than used by the Incas in the lower part.
The site contains the remnants of many other Incan structures.
Commercial break - textiles
Next we were treated to a display of textile weaving and colouring using traditional natural dyes and given an opportunity to buy related products.
Moray
At Moray there is an interesting Incan terraced site - in the form of concentric semicircules descending into the ground.
The way the air is trapped / channeled creates a greenhouse effect with the lower reaches reportedly being as much as 15 degrees centigrade warmer than the top. Soil samples also apparently show different soils having been brought here from different parts of Peru.
Our guide seemed keen on the theory that the Incans were effectively using this to selectively breed plants to survive at lower temperatures / higher altitudes - plants are grown first in one ring where the temperature is suitable and then those hardy enough spread to a higher ring and so on. That seems possible but equally they could just be using it as a greenhouse for exotic (for the altitude) plants. Either way the greenhouse effect and differences in soils seem to be real and confirmed.
Salinas de Maras
The salt mines of Maras have been in operation since pre-Inca times are are still in use today. There are around 4,500 'ponds' all owned by local families. Water from a naturally salty stream is channeled into a pond then allowed to evaporate at which point the salt is collected and packed into sacks for transportation and further treatment.
Commercial break - chocolate
Next we had a chocolate tasting and were given the opportunity to buy some related products.
Lunch
We stopped at Urubamba for a buffet lunch which was very enjoyable and in particular included ceviche - the first time I'd tried this. Ceviche is "Peru's national dish" and consists of raw fish cured with citrus juices (generally lemon or lime) and often, as here, with onion.
Ollantaytambo
At Ollantaytambo stands the remains of an Incan fortress above a series of terraces. Here the Incans, having lost Cusco, were able to repel Spanish attacks for a time before deciding that the Spanish were going to keep returning with more troops - then the Incans withdrew to their final stronghold of Vilcabamba.
The terrace walls consist of some packed with dirt - although Incan built these are functional without the decorativeness of some of their work.
The top gives impressive views.
Across from the fort are the storehouses that kept them supplied.
Pisac
There is a substantial Incan complex at Pisac with a wlld settlement standing above the classical terraced fields.
Having found and looted the mummified Inca rulers at places such as Chinchero, the Spanish apparently demanded to know where the people in this area buried their dead, which was in the side of what is basically a cliff face, so the Spanish excavated them and found human remains and nothing else because these weren't the wealthy and powerful, they were just people.
Commercial break - jewellery
Next we were shown various items of jewellery and given the opportunity to buy some related products.